A proper pilgrim

I stood in front of this medieval illustration today while reading a descriptive panel in Laon. (Well, reading-ish as the panel was in French so it was mostly guessing). I noticed the fella on the right has the same tailor as me, and the same black boots.

The accompanying text described the identifying signs of a medieval pilgrim. Leaning on my walking staff I bent down to read about 'le bourdon qui aide â marcher'. Went I leant forward the leather bag on my back swung forward too, so I pushed it out of the way to read about 'la besace pour transporter ses effects.' My pilgrim's passport and floppy sun hat had fallen out of the bag, so I had to retrieve them before I could learn about the other two signs: 'la crédentiale qui est une sorte de passeport attestant sa qualité de pèlerin et non pas de vagabond,' and 'un large chapeau pour se protéger de la pluie ou du soleil.'

On the way back to Rocinante I heard a little girl ask her mother a question as I passed: what's that? is my guess. I understood one word of the mother's reply: 'pèlerin'.

So (today at least) I found I was a proper pilgrim. Not a vagabond.