But without question the most moving place in the building is the crypt chapel housing the tomb of St Francis. I arrived again this morning as the mass was beginning but, taking advantage of the fact that everyone was 'upstairs' I went down the stone steps into the crypt where I could sit almost alone (two friars were praying there too).
I'm not sure what Francis would make of the Basilica. All that splendour for one who sought simplicity! But the tomb seems so appropriate. Beautiful but not ornate, small, unpretentious, quiet. Around the tomb itself are four niches where four of his closest companions are buried, Brothers Leo, Masseo, Rufino and Angelo, inseparable in death as they were in life. At the back of the crypt is one more burial: Lady Jacoba of Settesoli, a noblewoman who became a friend, supporter and devoted follower of Francis. As he lay dying he asked for her to be present. The friars were perturbed, as women weren't supposed to enter the friary. With a smile, Francis encouraged them to make an exception for 'Brother Jacoba'. She brought him some small almond sweets he particularly loved, then stayed with him as he died.
As well as being faithful to the humility and simplicity of Francis, everything about this little chapel speaks of love and community. It's a beautiful place to begin the day, a beautiful place to pray.
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