Aidan's rest

A few people had suggested that I visit Bamburgh Castle while travelling up the northeast coast, so I headed over that way from Alnmouth - forgetting that it's a bank holiday weekend. The town and castle were heaving with people, despite the strong winds left over from Storm Lilian, and after a week of camping in the woods and praying in churches it was more noise and bustle than I could cope with.

I looked down the road from the castle and pulled over to peruse the map, ready to pick the next stop. As I got off the bike I noticed a church opposite with a big 'Open' sign outside, the kind of invitation I try not to resist.

Everyone had told me about the castle, but no-one had thought to mention St Aidan's Church. As I quickly discovered, it's not called St Aidan's as a dedication but because he built the original church and ministered here. It's one of the key sites in the Northumbrian Christian story, and a wonderful place for a pilgrim to call in. 

The photo shows the marvellous shrine to Aidan in the chancel (Aidan is said to have died leaning against the church wall - I've been to one or two services like that before - and was buried somewhere in the grounds). There was a great deal on display here about Aidan, Oswald and the Northumbrian saints' story. But it was also a place in which people were clearly expected and welcome to pray, so I sat for a good while and joined in with the millennium and a half of praying life that has marked this place. It was a joy. 

Out in the churchyard was the grave and monument of Grace Darling who, as a young woman rowed out into a vicious storm one night (along with her father), risking her life to save sailors from a wrecked ship. She was celebrated nationally in the Victorian newspapers because her courage was "equal to that of the bravest man". She sounds amazing, although I hope that these days we might be able to come up with a better description of her incredible valour!

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