Derby: a corner of heaven

After Accrington I started to get homesick. It had been a wet night and I was cold and tired. Blackburn cathedral's morning service had been disappointing. Then followed a long ride through Manchester. Ever seen Life on Mars? If not, you've got a treat ahead. But my GPS took me through every depressing 1970s style corner of the city, past every boarded up and vandalised factory, through every characterful alleyway, into every run-down neighbourhood. It was hard going. And all the churches were locked. 

I emerged to the south, rose up into beautiful green hills, and soon found myself in the glorious Peak District. And one day I'm going to go back and explore it properly. But as I rode through some of the most magnificent countryside England has to offer, I realised that after nearly six weeks on the road (between the two pilgrimages) I'd done enough. I was ready to be home. 

I pushed on to Derby and arrived in time for evening prayer, so I decided to stop. As always, it proved to be an excellent decision. I'd never visited Derby Cathedral before. What an astonishing discovery! Rather than the usual Gothic spires and arches it's a product of the classical revival, so inside it feels more like a Christian version of an ancient Greek temple than a typical English church. And it really works. Such a sense of space and light! I was captivated. 

Kim, the Verger, ushered me and two other visitors into the choir stalls and made sure we had the books we needed. After a few minutes Bob, the priest leading the service, came out and we began making our way through 1662 Book of Common Prayer evening prayer. No, that's not quite right. We began meditatively, sensitively praying our way through the service. Bob and Kim made sure we knew where we were in the service at every point. They used microphones! Yes! Only five of us in a small space but they still bothered with the sound system ... and for those with hearing loss, like me, these things make a huge difference (Blackburn, take note). It was terrific. 

I chatted pleasantly with Bob and Kim afterwards, then left to find La Fenice and start figuring out a place to camp. Looking at the map I realised that home wasn't far away now. I'd ridden a great deal in one day already, but ...

///vets.pasta.kite